However, removing the old plaster of a home, removing the wallpaper or adding special finishes could increase the cost involved. I followed the advice of keeping the snout of a shop-vac close to the tool, and it really minimized the dust and I had the area isolated with plastic drop cloths taped in place around the doorways and stairway. Always remember, the cost of plastering a home varies from wall conditions to the finishing you need. I cut along the inside of the joists rather than the center to leave the plaster secure, and sistered in sections of 2x4s for nailers, which I lowered 1/4' so that the installed section of drywall would match the surface level. I only manage to rattle loose a small amount of finish coat along places along the margins in a few places. It was a little slower in areas where it wasn't. Particularly where the plaster was tightly secured to a joist, it blazed right along. I changed to a titanium coated bimetal flat blade that was the ticket. I tried a 3-1/2' semi-circular diamond blade first, which worked but pretty slow when it met the metal mesh. This can easily be done with the use of patching material as long as the condition of the. I used foam board, vapor barrier, strapping, and drywall over the exterior plaster walls. A common repair for lath and plaster walls is filling in cracks. The interior wall was plaster over cinder block. I just refinished a 1st floor room (house was built in 63 and I live in PA) and all of the exterior walls were plaster, 0 insulation, and no vapor barrier. The lath can be repaired and/or replaced, it is simply rough sawn cedar strip, nailed to the vertical wall supports, called studs. Ive had best luck with brad point drill bits, theyre aggressive, and butterfly anchors The hollow wall anchors you are looking at tend to do bad things to plaster. Especially if the walls are interior walls. I squared up an opening 3' by 4' using an oscillating tool. Lath likes to bend away from your drill as you try to go through it.

The thickness of the plaster is 3/4' which was to be replaced with 1/2' green drywall. Gary Wentz is a carpenter and the Editor-in-Chief of The Family Handyman. The plumber appears to have used a hammer to bust out an area below the leak, leaving an irregular opening. First, again thanks for all the posts and collective experience & wisdom. All you need do is fill the cracks and screw holes and coat with a decoration of your choice.Posting up with results - all positive. When it has gone off, remove the board from the underside and heypresto one ceiling restuck to the original laths. Basically, keep scraping until you hit grey (or brown, sometimes). Scrape them down, untill you get a nice, deep groove thats through the built-up paint and the hard surface layer. Since plaster is considered a higher quality material than drywall. Re: Clean cuts in lathe and plaster walls Score it deep, twice, about 1/8' apart. I have seen plaster and lath wall replacements without removing. Replacing plaster walls with drywall will cost well over 10000 for a 2000 square foot home.

This will bond to the existing plaster and envelope the laths within. In that case, Ive used wood glue and clamps for that repair. If you can then get to the ceiling above to check out the state of the lath and they seem well fixed to the joists still (most water damage to L & P ceilings or walls is due to the laths warping when they dry out and this in turn breaks the plaster nibs off which holds the ceiling up) then hoover out all debris and dust, dampen down and pour a haired sand:lime (3:1) mix between the joists. If you wish to hold it in place whilst you make the repair, then instead of acrow props or sticks whicn get in the way, why not find where the joists are and screw into them a sheet of plasterboard or ply wood over the loose area to support it.

Replacement for plaster and lathe walls